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    One of those things is about fastener. The subject of nuts and bolts may be a simple one for mechanical engineers, however.

    As a subject […]. First, thank you for the article. Second, I found on youtube this video also from boltscience.

    From what I see the test shows now that helical spring washers do help. The amplitude in change but still. Can you please check out the video, what do you make of this?

    This other test conducted by Nord — Lock shows again that spring washers do have an positive effect. What about the general use of flat washers?

    Washers are used to provide a bearing surface for a nut or screw head, cover large clearance holes, and distribute fastener loads over a large area, particularly on soft materials.

    They are useful hardware for many reasons but are not intended as a reliable source for vibration protection. The fastener is easier to tighten due to the two bareing surfaces and, obviously, is therefore easier to loosen off too.

    Obviously there are other advantages as well, such as reduced material deformation and increased stiffness and sliding friction around the hole without increasing the fastener size.

    My experience is a smooth flat hardened washer allows for higher bolt tension vs. It acts as a bearing surface by lowering friction under the head of the bolt.

    How can you know what tension the bolt is under? Do spring washers protect against vibration loosening? Not if the user installs them with the same torque as without.

    Does Loctite protect against vibration loosening? Maybe, if the bolt was properly tightened while the Loctite was still wet. You need to add a few ft-lbs of torque to account for the added thread friction even when wet.

    Eric, These are excellent points, thank you for sharing! Bolt tension is what we ultimately care about but we can only easily estimate that via tightening torque or turn of the nut.

    It hadnt occurred to me, but of course the nordlock washers would affect that torque measurement. Some amount of setting occurs at each interface on and also after tightening.

    One of the advantages of using a washer under the tightened component either nut or bolt head is probably better control of under head friction, if a good quality washer is used.

    In that case, I think the taper is primarily for centering, but it also serves to prevent transverse motion. Plus, you do your wheel nuts up really tight!

    Preventing the transverse motion is probably the answer. Note, the Juncker test actually tests the joint reliability against loosening due to transverse vibrations.

    Glad to see a format like this. Electrical connections should use flat washers I believe but I have no test data to support that, only experiences. With flat washer and split ring approach, higher torque can be applied and a gas tight seal is made such that oxygen can not start corrosion.

    With serrated nuts or star washers, lower torque leads to more open circuits and some sort of liquid tape is needed to seal the moisture out which assembly and service people hate.

    I am searching for better answers in this area. Thanks for the interesting article about fasteners. Plus, it would be cool to test out these different types and see how differently they feel.

    Here is something really trick for locking threads. It is called the Saper-Lock. It uses a coil spring which is contained within the nut and wraps into the threads.

    Threading into the nut springs the coils open to allow for the threads to make up. As you try to unthread the bolt, the spring wraps tighter around the minor diameter of the bolt not allowing rotation sort of like Chinese handcuffs.

    The more torque you put into the bolt, the tighter it gets. These are used in very high vibration environments such as train stations.

    To release the bolt, one leg of the spring is expanded with the socket to relieve the tension and allows the bolt to release.

    Very clever Germans. Google Saper-Lock. Very clever little nut, I had never seen that one before.

    Thanks for sharing! This week I was working with an 84 year old!!! Being a still curious about things 71 year old, I decided to google that lock washer theory and ended up on your site.

    Who knew there could be so much information and controversy about fasteners!! Have bookmarked your site for future reference.

    I have found lots of references that seem very legitimate proclaim that the split lock washer is useless or worse.

    I work in aerospace and they are common, so I had a hard time believing it was still used based on tradition and the momentum of wrong information.

    Bickford is an expert on fasteners and he has made his career studying them. His handbook is one of the most used ME references for fasteners.

    He refers to a study published in a journal where it was determined that they are beneficial when used appropriately. The pitfall all of the readily available resources fall into is assume the design intent behind the split lock washer was only to flatten the washer where the cut ends are on the same plane.

    The study indicates this was not the case. When load applied approaches the yield limit for the bolt, the washer twists or rolls.

    This is due to the trapezoidal cross section of the washer. The spring constant is much higher in this mode, and it effectively adds a significant length to the bolt.

    It is well documented that this has a beneficial effect on preventing loosening. The following is just conjecture on my part, I have not found anything solid to back it up.

    But I believe these were first produced prior to I could not find anybody credited with the invention. They were cheap to manufacture, and were copied and used without really understanding how they worked.

    I think the helical shape of the lockwasher is a result of the method of manufacture, not a requirement of the design.

    Studies were performed like some of the ones you cite that show they are ineffective long after the design intent was forgotten.

    A theoretical analysis where one does not go past the force required to flatten the washer make it appear insignificant. The study discussed by Bickford implies that to get the benefit from the lockwasher you must reach a certain pre-load.

    So the base material has to be able to withstand that load. Also the most benefit would be seen with designs where a critical joint does not have the space for a long shank bolt or screw.

    So they are not the best and for every application. But they are not useless either. I always thought split washers were used to make sure there is tension on the threads during temperature cycles.

    The spring effect makes sure there is friction even if it changes size, keeping the nut from rotating. Might be worth while to try some temperature cycling experiments.

    One bolting cold, and one bolting hot. And then put them into a fridge and into a warm room, back and forth.

    This would emulate a car warming up and cooling off in the winter. Would the serrated flange bolt require the same torque spec? An exception to 6 number of threads required should be noted in the case of steel bolts into plastic material.

    Additional threads will provide additional strength as the force can be distributed across more than 6 threads.

    I dont have data for that but that theory makes sense. So you can get it out again. What would be ideal would be a cross head design semi compatible with Philips and Pozi that limited the torque doing things up, but not when undoing things!

    Bolts and washers are frequently used as rotating joints in many devices. For example, I found this page while searching for the correct order to reinstall washers and rubber spacers in a guitar wah-wah pedal.

    In this application what is desired is smooth, squeak-free movement with just enough friction to hold the pedal in a steady position when not in use.

    Any tips on this category of bolted joint? Sorry for the late response, I had to sit on this one for a while. I think the answer depends entirely on how much thrust load the retaining nuts will subjected to.

    Very clever little nut, I had never seen that one before. Thanks for sharing! This week I was working with an 84 year old!!!

    Being a still curious about things 71 year old, I decided to google that lock washer theory and ended up on your site. Who knew there could be so much information and controversy about fasteners!!

    Have bookmarked your site for future reference. I have found lots of references that seem very legitimate proclaim that the split lock washer is useless or worse.

    I work in aerospace and they are common, so I had a hard time believing it was still used based on tradition and the momentum of wrong information.

    Bickford is an expert on fasteners and he has made his career studying them. His handbook is one of the most used ME references for fasteners.

    He refers to a study published in a journal where it was determined that they are beneficial when used appropriately. The pitfall all of the readily available resources fall into is assume the design intent behind the split lock washer was only to flatten the washer where the cut ends are on the same plane.

    The study indicates this was not the case. When load applied approaches the yield limit for the bolt, the washer twists or rolls.

    This is due to the trapezoidal cross section of the washer. The spring constant is much higher in this mode, and it effectively adds a significant length to the bolt.

    It is well documented that this has a beneficial effect on preventing loosening. The following is just conjecture on my part, I have not found anything solid to back it up.

    But I believe these were first produced prior to I could not find anybody credited with the invention. They were cheap to manufacture, and were copied and used without really understanding how they worked.

    I think the helical shape of the lockwasher is a result of the method of manufacture, not a requirement of the design.

    Studies were performed like some of the ones you cite that show they are ineffective long after the design intent was forgotten.

    A theoretical analysis where one does not go past the force required to flatten the washer make it appear insignificant. The study discussed by Bickford implies that to get the benefit from the lockwasher you must reach a certain pre-load.

    So the base material has to be able to withstand that load. Also the most benefit would be seen with designs where a critical joint does not have the space for a long shank bolt or screw.

    So they are not the best and for every application. But they are not useless either. I always thought split washers were used to make sure there is tension on the threads during temperature cycles.

    The spring effect makes sure there is friction even if it changes size, keeping the nut from rotating.

    Might be worth while to try some temperature cycling experiments. One bolting cold, and one bolting hot. And then put them into a fridge and into a warm room, back and forth.

    This would emulate a car warming up and cooling off in the winter. Would the serrated flange bolt require the same torque spec?

    An exception to 6 number of threads required should be noted in the case of steel bolts into plastic material. Additional threads will provide additional strength as the force can be distributed across more than 6 threads.

    I dont have data for that but that theory makes sense. So you can get it out again. What would be ideal would be a cross head design semi compatible with Philips and Pozi that limited the torque doing things up, but not when undoing things!

    Bolts and washers are frequently used as rotating joints in many devices. For example, I found this page while searching for the correct order to reinstall washers and rubber spacers in a guitar wah-wah pedal.

    In this application what is desired is smooth, squeak-free movement with just enough friction to hold the pedal in a steady position when not in use.

    Any tips on this category of bolted joint? Sorry for the late response, I had to sit on this one for a while.

    I think the answer depends entirely on how much thrust load the retaining nuts will subjected to. I googled a guitar wah-wah pedal, and in something like that there is likely almost no load seeking to push the nut off.

    But your question got me thinking about higher load applications, like hinges for tilting solar panels on my college solar car.

    In cases like that I would want to throw in a bronze washer, or maybe even a thrust bearing. I have Dodge Ram with a 5. I bought the truck with a cracked flexplate.

    Replaced the flexplate and drove 10 miles and I hear a rattle again. I did NOT use blue loctite because I wanted to see if all noise disappeared, which it did for 10 miles.

    I plan on replacing all the bolts and blue locktighting them. After an extensive internet search it appears this engine habitually loosened the torque converter bolts.

    I did NOT find any solutions, some manufacturers even called for the use of red loctite.. So I was wondering if a distorted thread one time use bolt would be better to hold torque or a serrated washer type bolt?

    Any ideas since these bolts have severe vibration and rotation? If they are that bad, perhaps drill the heads and wire them in place?

    Thanks for the input. Unfortunately these bolts are inserted through an inspection hole half way up on the 5. Hello, i have a problem with some fasteners, and i hope you can help me.

    I have a flange with a lot of fasteners and when i try to check the torque with a torque wrench,nut and bolt spin toguether like one body, but when i lock the nut, the torque wrench clicks at the established torque value.

    It is ok? Has the bolt lost his preload? Has the friction coeficcient increased by corroson or foreign particles? If the nuts ond bolts are new then they might not be good enough for the torque spec and the threads are either damaged or stretched.

    In either case you need new, and perhaps better, bolts and nuts. Im not sure I understand the full question.

    Are you asking, if I choose to use a lock washer should I torque the bolt to its normal spec during installation? To this I would say yes.

    Hi Dog, Thanks for taking the time to gather together some clear science on this subject. I especially appreciate your comments on double nuts locknuts.

    Consider adding a qualifier that the distribution of forces on the threads will be different when tapping softer materials and more ductile materials.

    So we might choose to add a few more thread engagements. I worked as a Jacquard Loom Fixer in textile weaving mills for 14 years. The policy was that every nut had to have both a washer and a split lock washer under them.

    I was also an auto mechanic for about a decade and always used the same there — whether it came from the factory like that or not. I got my engineering degree in and stopped doing mechanic work for a living — but still do it for fun.

    So, after over 50 years, I cringe every time I see a fastener without the split washer-flat washer. Will I now change how I do it…?

    From specc-ing and building race engines to maintenance in a rolling mill — if I ever see a split washer I throw it in the bin.

    Funny how experience can lead people in opposite directions! After any appreciable length of time they stop working and ultimately they deform and fall out.

    Point number 4 should be revised. The only concern is fracturing the bolt during assembly. From the linked article:. Tightening beyond yield does not affect the ability of the bolt to withstand the effects of subsequent service loading on the joint.

    High pretensions are good for joint performance because:. Improved resistance to bolt fatigue. Shear loads will be taken by friction at the mating surfaces of the joint members.

    Resistance to loosening. Tightening to yield simplifies the tightening method. You are commenting using your WordPress. Beginning in with stylized illustrations of twins, advertisements continued with print ads and later television commercials, featuring actual twins as spokespersons.

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    There are a lot of other lock washer styles, so I encourage you to research additional options. They may not hold the peak preload in all cases of vibration, but they will typically retain the nut, even if it loses some preload.

    An image of a nylon insert nut is shown below. These are commonly used in high vibration environments on non-safety critical applications where you still want to prevent the nut from possibly loosening and falling off.

    As an example, this type of fastener is used on my hitch mounted mountain bike rack, as shown below. In this application, there will be no immediate safety hazard if the preload is lost because the screw still supports the load in double shear.

    However, if the screw falls out, there may be a safety concern, so we need to make sure the bolt remains connected.

    It works by installing a steel wire through a hole in a screw, bolt, or nut and anchoring it to another item. Safety wire is often applied between a series of fasteners to hold them all together.

    The image below details such an application. We can see that for one nut to loosen, the other must be tightened because of the orientation of the wire.

    This is very important to remember, because safety wire installed in the incorrect orientation is almost entirely useless.

    Some sort of pin is placed through the threaded shaft or bolt to prevent a nut from backing off.

    The image below illustrates a castle nut:. In this application, a hole is drilled in the bolt, so the cotter pin can go through the slots in the castle nut.

    This prevents the nut from rotating in either direction to prevent loosening, but it still allows for the pin to be removed and nut loosened, if needed.

    The image below is an example of a castle nut being used to secure a wheel hub in place:. They are even used in conjunction with a mechanical method above in many instances.

    In the oil and gas industry, where the drilling environment sees extreme vibrations, it's common to use a lock washer and an adhesive. The adhesives can be broken down as follows:.

    Loctite is the most widely known brand in the United States, but there are several alternatives. The image below shows an example of Loctite blue applied to a bolt.

    It's important to note that Loctite comes in several grades, some of which are not intended to be removeable. You'll have to ensure you're using the correct grade for your application.

    In some instances, it's just a dry nylon, and in others, it's an active adhesive. Dry patches may be used to eliminate the process variability associated with manually dispensing adhesive threadlockers, or it may be used to improve the logistics of loose hardware that will require threadlockers.

    As an example, I recently assembled some furniture that had dry patches on all the hardware. The manufacturer knew this would improve the reliability of the assembly and wouldn't require the end user to apply liquid threadlocker.

    I've summarized these methods in a quick reference chart that will get you started in your search for a proper thread locker.

    As we've seen here, there are a multitude of ways to prevent threads from coming loose under normal operations. However, it's important to choose the right method for the application.

    While the chart above will help get you started, more research should be done before you decide on your ultimate solution.

    When selecting your method, it will help to walk through these options with vendors and coworkers in an effort to match your application with a close fit.

    Your design can be further optimized if you test a few different options to see what gives you the best blend of attributes.

    This post is provided by Fictiv , the most efficient manufacturing platform for fabricating parts.

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    I don't know if Spiralock counts as one of these technologies, but Spiralock should be more widely known. Spiralock threading puts a shoulder which is ground to a slightly different angle on the entire screw thread so the entire bolt or screw gets compressive loading along its shaft, locking it in place by friction when the screw is tightened, while still permitting easy turning until it is tightened.

    Finite element analysis shows that this removes the stress concentration along the top-most threads that occurs in regular screw and bolt threading.

    This was invented over a decade ago. I really think it deserves to be more widely known, because stress concentration is the source of material fatigue and failure, and the threading on a screw essentially sets up the screw to fail at the thread roots due to stress concentration propagating cracks.

    May I just add that the spring lock type washers mentioned here, along with all other spring type washers are not part of the DIN norms anymore because of low to zero proven effectiveness.

    There are however multiple other locking type washers including the nordlocks mentioned. Correct, spring washers are ineffective, proven since I don't care what tests have been performed, from my own past experiences, using spring washers has never failed me.

    Not once. And I've been using them for more than 20 years. It's a different story altogether if I use a bolt and nut without one. You left out locking helicoils, lock plates where a sheet of metal is inserted below the head of the bolt and a corner is bent up against a flat of the bolt head and down over the side of the flange to prevent the bolt from backing off , and the quick and dirty, but very effective tack weld.

    Fictiv is transforming how teams design, develop, and deliver the next generation of hardware products.

    The online interface makes it easy for customers to get instant quotes, review manufacturing feedback, and manage orders—all through a single service.

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    Learn more. Enter a caption optional. I am searching for better answers in this area. Thanks for the interesting article about fasteners.

    Plus, it would be cool to test out these different types and see how differently they feel. Here is something really trick for locking threads.

    It is called the Saper-Lock. It uses a coil spring which is contained within the nut and wraps into the threads.

    Threading into the nut springs the coils open to allow for the threads to make up. As you try to unthread the bolt, the spring wraps tighter around the minor diameter of the bolt not allowing rotation sort of like Chinese handcuffs.

    The more torque you put into the bolt, the tighter it gets. These are used in very high vibration environments such as train stations.

    To release the bolt, one leg of the spring is expanded with the socket to relieve the tension and allows the bolt to release.

    Very clever Germans. Google Saper-Lock. Very clever little nut, I had never seen that one before. Thanks for sharing! This week I was working with an 84 year old!!!

    Being a still curious about things 71 year old, I decided to google that lock washer theory and ended up on your site.

    Who knew there could be so much information and controversy about fasteners!! Have bookmarked your site for future reference. I have found lots of references that seem very legitimate proclaim that the split lock washer is useless or worse.

    I work in aerospace and they are common, so I had a hard time believing it was still used based on tradition and the momentum of wrong information.

    Bickford is an expert on fasteners and he has made his career studying them. His handbook is one of the most used ME references for fasteners.

    He refers to a study published in a journal where it was determined that they are beneficial when used appropriately. The pitfall all of the readily available resources fall into is assume the design intent behind the split lock washer was only to flatten the washer where the cut ends are on the same plane.

    The study indicates this was not the case. When load applied approaches the yield limit for the bolt, the washer twists or rolls. This is due to the trapezoidal cross section of the washer.

    The spring constant is much higher in this mode, and it effectively adds a significant length to the bolt.

    It is well documented that this has a beneficial effect on preventing loosening. The following is just conjecture on my part, I have not found anything solid to back it up.

    But I believe these were first produced prior to I could not find anybody credited with the invention. They were cheap to manufacture, and were copied and used without really understanding how they worked.

    I think the helical shape of the lockwasher is a result of the method of manufacture, not a requirement of the design. Studies were performed like some of the ones you cite that show they are ineffective long after the design intent was forgotten.

    A theoretical analysis where one does not go past the force required to flatten the washer make it appear insignificant. The study discussed by Bickford implies that to get the benefit from the lockwasher you must reach a certain pre-load.

    So the base material has to be able to withstand that load. Also the most benefit would be seen with designs where a critical joint does not have the space for a long shank bolt or screw.

    So they are not the best and for every application. But they are not useless either. I always thought split washers were used to make sure there is tension on the threads during temperature cycles.

    The spring effect makes sure there is friction even if it changes size, keeping the nut from rotating.

    Might be worth while to try some temperature cycling experiments. One bolting cold, and one bolting hot. And then put them into a fridge and into a warm room, back and forth.

    This would emulate a car warming up and cooling off in the winter. Would the serrated flange bolt require the same torque spec? An exception to 6 number of threads required should be noted in the case of steel bolts into plastic material.

    Additional threads will provide additional strength as the force can be distributed across more than 6 threads. I dont have data for that but that theory makes sense.

    So you can get it out again. What would be ideal would be a cross head design semi compatible with Philips and Pozi that limited the torque doing things up, but not when undoing things!

    Bolts and washers are frequently used as rotating joints in many devices. For example, I found this page while searching for the correct order to reinstall washers and rubber spacers in a guitar wah-wah pedal.

    In this application what is desired is smooth, squeak-free movement with just enough friction to hold the pedal in a steady position when not in use.

    Any tips on this category of bolted joint? Sorry for the late response, I had to sit on this one for a while. I think the answer depends entirely on how much thrust load the retaining nuts will subjected to.

    I googled a guitar wah-wah pedal, and in something like that there is likely almost no load seeking to push the nut off.

    But your question got me thinking about higher load applications, like hinges for tilting solar panels on my college solar car.

    In cases like that I would want to throw in a bronze washer, or maybe even a thrust bearing. I have Dodge Ram with a 5. I bought the truck with a cracked flexplate.

    Replaced the flexplate and drove 10 miles and I hear a rattle again. I did NOT use blue loctite because I wanted to see if all noise disappeared, which it did for 10 miles.

    I plan on replacing all the bolts and blue locktighting them. After an extensive internet search it appears this engine habitually loosened the torque converter bolts.

    I did NOT find any solutions, some manufacturers even called for the use of red loctite.. So I was wondering if a distorted thread one time use bolt would be better to hold torque or a serrated washer type bolt?

    Any ideas since these bolts have severe vibration and rotation? If they are that bad, perhaps drill the heads and wire them in place? Thanks for the input.

    Unfortunately these bolts are inserted through an inspection hole half way up on the 5. Hello, i have a problem with some fasteners, and i hope you can help me.

    I have a flange with a lot of fasteners and when i try to check the torque with a torque wrench,nut and bolt spin toguether like one body, but when i lock the nut, the torque wrench clicks at the established torque value.

    It is ok? Has the bolt lost his preload? Has the friction coeficcient increased by corroson or foreign particles?

    If the nuts ond bolts are new then they might not be good enough for the torque spec and the threads are either damaged or stretched. In either case you need new, and perhaps better, bolts and nuts.

    Im not sure I understand the full question. Are you asking, if I choose to use a lock washer should I torque the bolt to its normal spec during installation?

    To this I would say yes. Hi Dog, Thanks for taking the time to gather together some clear science on this subject.

    I especially appreciate your comments on double nuts locknuts. Consider adding a qualifier that the distribution of forces on the threads will be different when tapping softer materials and more ductile materials.

    So we might choose to add a few more thread engagements. I worked as a Jacquard Loom Fixer in textile weaving mills for 14 years.

    The policy was that every nut had to have both a washer and a split lock washer under them. I was also an auto mechanic for about a decade and always used the same there — whether it came from the factory like that or not.

    I got my engineering degree in and stopped doing mechanic work for a living — but still do it for fun. So, after over 50 years, I cringe every time I see a fastener without the split washer-flat washer.

    Will I now change how I do it…? From specc-ing and building race engines to maintenance in a rolling mill — if I ever see a split washer I throw it in the bin.

    Funny how experience can lead people in opposite directions! After any appreciable length of time they stop working and ultimately they deform and fall out.

    Point number 4 should be revised. The only concern is fracturing the bolt during assembly. From the linked article:. Tightening beyond yield does not affect the ability of the bolt to withstand the effects of subsequent service loading on the joint.

    High pretensions are good for joint performance because:. Improved resistance to bolt fatigue. Shear loads will be taken by friction at the mating surfaces of the joint members.

    Resistance to loosening. Tightening to yield simplifies the tightening method. You are commenting using your WordPress.

    You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account.

    Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam.

    Learn how your comment data is processed. January 11, April 15, EngineerDog. Neat, I just wish I could afford one.

    Class 1 is a good choice when quick assembly and disassembly is a priority. Class 2 is the most common thread class because it offers a good balance between price and quality.

    Class 3 is best used in applications requiring close tolerances and a strong connection. Class 4 is precision tight, typically used for lead screws and such.

    Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Much more subtle than a castellated nut, which rely on a cotter pin for its locking action Like Like.

    Thank you for make this blog Like Liked by 1 person. Thanks as well. You write very well Like Liked by 1 person. As a subject […] Like Like.

    Hello, First, thank you for the article. Thanks for sharing that, Ive updated the post. I stumbled across Bolt Science several months ago.

    Glad to see that others have too. Glad you enjoyed! WOW Interesting! Thank you for sharing your insights! Thanks for the interesting article!

    Thanks Like Like. JPG Like Like. I loved the article. One question, why are Phillips designed to strip? I think its that a slightly stripped screw is preferable to a broken screw or driver.

    I hope you can clear my doubts. Thank you.

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